• Fri. Jul 5th, 2024

    Early Jewelry History: Prehistoric to 17th Century

    It seems that everyone in the age range of 8 to 18 is familiar with the tales of Frodo the hobbit and his adventures around Middle Earth in the Lord of the Rings, as well as Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone. Humanity has been surrounded by gemstones and jewelry since prehistoric times.

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    It started when man set foot on Earth and time began. Naturally, the jewelry worn by the ancients was not created in the same way as it is today. The jewelry worn by the ancient people was fashioned from colored pebbles, feathers, bones, and shells. These vibrant stones were actually diamonds, which are prized for their strength and beauty when used as jewelry. Before people discovered how to cut diamonds to display their brilliance, which happened in Europe at about 1300, diamonds were not very common. Numerous jewelry designs that are still produced today started off as useful goods. Closure clasps were the original source of pins and brooches. Early seals and indicators of identity, status, and power were made on rings and pendants.

    Jewelry was first discovered approximately 25,000 years ago. This straightforward fishbone necklace was discovered in a Monaco cave. What was the meaning of this necklace? Was it for a witch doctor or the village chief? Perhaps it was a trophy a princess received from her husband for bearing a boy child. Even if we may never discover the true motivation behind the gift’s creation, we might try to imagine what individuals were thinking back then.

    In some cases, meeting the urge to feel like we belong and are accepted might be just as crucial as meeting our bodily requirements. A feeling of self-worth and identity are essential, therefore being a part of anything reflects a need as well. Teeth, claws, horns, and bones were among the first decorations that came from the hunt. It was the belief of hunters that donning their trophies would bring good fortune for their next hunt. Recall that the village depended on a good hunter to survive, and that individual was deserving of honor and benefits. Naturally, the most skilled hunters aspired to demonstrate their bravery and might.

    Early societies wore jewelry as amulets to stave off illness and bad luck. In the legends of his journey through Middle Earth, Frodo was shielded from harm by the silver vest worn by the princess of the elves. We still hear stories now of individuals from long ago who, in some way, used jewelry and gemstones to bring them luck and riches. From these myths, jewelry with symbols that are supposed to grant the wearer control over fertility, riches, and love, has evolved. People wore jewelry because of its magical qualities.

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    Later, jewelry began to represent commitment and human connection. It was required of slaves to wear wristbands to identify their owners. Wedding rings represented the dedication a couple had to one another. In the past, only affluent and influential church officials in Europe were permitted to wear jewels. This was an indication of authority and prosperity. In an attempt to imitate them, the commoners would accessorise their celebratory clothes with less costly jewels to add color and flare. Even now, some African tribes still wear massive lip plugs that deform the wearer’s mouth.

    This is done to make the ladies so unattractive that other tribes would not want to steal them and the men more intimidating in combat. Have you seen the long-necked women in Africa? Every year since childhood, a new ring is added to achieve this. The upper torso is distorted as a result, and the neck seems longer.

    We may observe how jewelry changed throughout time and ended up in jewelry stores by tracing its evolution from the old African world to the Mediterranean, then Europe, and lastly the United States.

     

    The Mediterranean and Iran

    The earliest evidence of jewelry dates back to the 3,000–400 BC civilizations that flourished in the Mediterranean and what is now Iran. Usually, they were just plain stone seals and amulets. Numerous amulets and seals were adorned with floral patterns, stars, and mystical connotations. Statues were adorned with jewelry that was presented to the gods. The greatest collection in history was given to us by the Royal Tombs in ancient Sumer, which date back to 3000 BC. They discovered corpses covered with headdresses, necklaces, earrings, rings, crowns, and pins, among other types of jewelry.

     

    The People from Egypt

    Moreover, amulets and talismans were worn by the ancient Egyptians. The scarab, a little beetle carved into a mummy, is a familiar sight from Mummy movies. The ankh, a symbol of life, was another recurring theme. A common type of jewelry that is even making a comeback in style is multistranded beads in different hues. The Egyptians fashioned bracelets out of many colored gemstone strains. Given how widespread these names are even now, you’ve probably heard of amethyst, carnelian, green feldspar, and turquoise.

    The cobra stood for Lower Egypt, and the vulture for Nekhbet, the patron deity of Upper Egypt, as the Egyptians employed symbols to express their sense of territorial pride. The royal jewelers worked with turquoise, amethyst, chalcedony, silver, gold, and lapis lazuli. Afghan miners were exchanged for lapis lazuli. The Egyptians were also well-known for their glass-like coating on clay and glass inlays, known as faience.

    Ancient Egyptians placed great importance on color symbolism because they firmly believed that colors mirror aspects of our personalities. The sun’s colors, yellow and gold, were always utilized in the pharaoh’s and his priests’ crowns and decorations. To enable communication in the afterlife, the pharaohs had a green stone placed in their mouths. It was thought that the red AB, or heart, amulet would protect one’s soul. The golden Udjat offered safety and well-being.

     

    Bahrain

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    Off the coast of Saudi Arabia, in the Persian Gulf, lies a level island called Bahrain. This was not an affluent and noble island. but a commoner’s island where 170,000 graves have been found. Some date as recently as 300 BC, although the oldest are close to 4,000 years old. These were common individuals who genuinely led comfortable lives. In an effort to learn more about these people’s way of life, archaeologists have descended upon Bahrain. They discovered javelins, metal axe heads, and even a pitcher that dates back 4,000 years and was discovered in ancient Oman. The oldest pearl and gold earring ever discovered, dating back 4,000 years, was their actual discovery.

    The Greeks

    The Greeks were prolific writers who frequently discussed jewelry and how it affected their daily lives. Greek jewelry dates back to 1200 BC and was a rich and varied reflection of the society’s affluence. The Greeks first imitated Eastern Motifs before creating their own unique aesthetic in accordance with their devotion to the gods and symbols. Greek jewelry includes hairpins, necklaces, brooches, earrings, bracelets, rings, and crowns. It was common for Greek ladies to wear necklaces that had up to 75 little vases hanging from them. Their jewelry blended the Etruscan use of gold with the Eastern taste in jewels. Granulation is a technique for creating little gold beads that was perfected by the Etruscans.

     

    The Romans

    The majority of gem stones that are used now were found by the Roman era. The prevailing beliefs were based on myth and magic, and precious stones were revered. The Roman ladies would have worn hairpins long enough to be utilized for self-defense, thus they served another function as well! The cameo was likewise adored and treasured by the Romans for its aesthetic value. Necklaces, bracelets for the wrist and upper arms, and gold coin jewelry all gained popularity.

     

    The Empire of Byzantium

    The Byzantine Empire had the richest jewelry legacy of any empire. Following the relocation of the capital to Constantinople in 330 AD by Emperor Constantine, the Byzantines inherited this prestigious status. Greece, Egypt, the Near East, and swathes of Russia and North Africa were all combined into one huge and prosperous empire. This mixing pot of influences resulted in the employment of vibrant hues and eastern symbols, which persisted throughout the Middle Ages. Through marriage, trade, and conflict, their designs were brought westward into Europe. During the Byzantine era, glass glaze pouring and setting into pre-soldered patterns or cells, followed by a high-temperature firing to melt the glaze into a permanent design, was a popular art form known as cloisonné enameling.

    The areas ruled by Rome were enveloped in darkness upon its fall. Life was difficult, and throughout Europe, luxury like jewelry had all but vanished. The majority of the money was held by the church during this period. The holy realm possessed gem-studded altars, chalices, and icon missals (books used during mass) in the tenth century. Bands of soldiers visited the holy land during the Crusades and returned bearing enormous quantities of jewelry and diamonds. The majority of the looting went to the Church, however several items were distributed to the general public instead of the Church.

     

    The Crusades

    A new era of trade and communication was made possible by the Crusades, which were the first significant trade between the East and the West in many centuries. It introduced fresh ideas and products to the European market. Few peasants wore jewelry between the twelfth and the fifteenth centuries, with the exception of the occasional brooch or hatpin.

    During the Middle Ages, the clergy and the royal family disapproved of commoners trying to dress or behave like them or wearing jewels. The aristocracy thought that this was a unique privilege that only they could experience. Sumptuary laws were introduced in order to impose this concept. These restrictions limited what people might wear, so as to discourage luxury and encourage thrift. Wearing rings has significance and function. There were four primary groups or objectives:

    1.] Religious rings that are worn as holy symbols by both clergy and laypeople.

    2.] Healing rings, intended to treat illnesses and conditions.

    3.] Romantic rings, the wedding band worn on the left second finger since it is so near the heart.

    4.] Compass rings, pipe stuffers, and brass knuckles are examples of gadget rings.

     

    Henry VIII, the king of England, donned the most ostentatious apparel in the sixteenth century, despite the French setting the fashion trends. He flaunted 324 brooches, at least 234 rings, and necklets adorned with pearl and diamonds. Elizabeth I, his daughter, had almost 2000 gowns constructed, all of which were heavily embellished with pearls and gemstones, because she was such a pearl lover. Elisabeth was dressed in a manner appropriate for the time. The Spanish Queen also donned gowns that were highly pearl-embroidered and embellished.

    France’s King Louis XIV promised to have the most gorgeous court in the entire country. More huge diamonds were imported from India under his reign (1642–1715) than at any other period in history. Have you heard of the Hope Diamond in blue? It is thought that Royal Jewelers Le Grand purchased it from Jean-Baptiste Tavernier with the intention of setting it in a necklace. This necklace was supposed to be a wedding present for Marie Antiquette from his grandchild, but it was taken.

    The baroque design movement peaked in the seventeenth century. (The Portuguese word “baroca” for an ill-formed pearl may be the source of the word “baroque.”) Diamonds eventually took the lead in the jewelry market as colored gemstones went out of style.

     

     

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