Why do so many people attach such an emotional value to some particular gems? According to Andrea Marechal Watson, talismanic jewelry has a fascinating past and is in high demand.

Gems have traditionally been associated with special abilities. The unusual sparkling stones that early humans discovered in mountains and on riverbeds were thought to be godlike, generated by unexplained subsurface powers. Jewels are said to have heavenly or superhuman origins in countless traditions that span cultures, from Ancient Greek to Aboriginal. According to legend, the Greek god Dionysus formed amethyst from his tears and Venus’s fingernails created onyx. The Aboriginal people of southern Australia believe that opals were created when their ancestral god appeared on Earth as a rainbow.

The talismanic value of jewels has been important throughout history. Moonstone was thought to be a means of connecting with the gods; jade was (and still is) thought to bring luck; rubies were thought to be useful in battle; emeralds were thought to shield travelers; and diamonds were thought to have healing and love-granting properties, although they may also be poisonous. For Maharajas, Chinese Emperors, kings, and queens, pearls represented authority.

Jewelers’ soft power has been continually abused by traders, diplomats, and of course, lovers. Pliny the Elder, a Roman author and philosopher, claimed that Cleopatra impressed Marc Antony by dissolving a valuable pearl in vinegar. The idea that every engagement ring had to feature a diamond was popularized in the contemporary era by De Beers’ catchphrase, “a diamond is forever.”

The contemporary fascination with distinctive and distinctive jewelry is a reflection of the emotional power that stones have over us. According to Harriet Scott of The Goldsmiths’ Company, an organization that has supported jewelers and silversmiths for seven centuries and whose annual Goldsmiths’ Fair is taking place this month, “big sparkly diamonds are not the thing at all in our end of the industry.” “People are searching for more affordable, personalized options.”

There are many odd commission stories, one of which involves Vicki Ambery-Smith’s ring, which was influenced by both imagined and real buildings. “One of my rings honors my client’s tenth wedding anniversary by featuring her home in Oxford, her car, and the St. Ebbe’s Church where she was married.” Gearry Suen, a recent graduate of the Royal College of Art, uses 3D modeling in conjunction with antiquated methods like jade carving to transform historical antiques into contemporary creations. Castro Smith specializes in custom signet rings, which are also seeing a renaissance in popularity.

Everything glistens

While there is now a boom in demand for upcycling and recycling ancestral antiques, this is not a new occurrence. According to Goldsmiths’ Fair ambassador Tricia Topping, “recycling gemstones has been going on since Roman times, which is partly why so little jewellery survives outside of royal and museum collections.”

Following Charles I’s execution, Oliver Cromwell ordered the crown jewels to be either destroyed or reused. The gold settings were then transformed into coins with the “Commonwealth of England” stamp. This sparked a surge of repurposing. One strategy Cartier used to grow its business in the early 20th century was refashioning jewelry. And the Koh-i-Noor is arguably the most well-known—and contentious—example of a repurposed jewel. One of the biggest cut diamonds ever was sent to Queen Victoria in 1851 for display at the Great Exhibition, following the British annexation of Punjab in 1849. The stone was recut at Prince Albert’s request to increase its shine, drastically decreasing its size while yet catering to the prevailing tastes of the time.

Because settings are frequently outdated, pieces are frequently left unworn. But the stones they hold are even more valuable. One customer informed jeweler Maya Selway, “I want a cocktail ring that can be worn with jeans,” as she freed an emerald from an antiquated setting.

Furthermore, the backstory of Shimell and Madden’s Lifeline brooch—which was made for Annette Austin—illustrates the stones’ ability to evoke strong emotions.

Austin says to BBC Culture, “I have been trying to simplify my life – selling, giving away or throwing out, and this included going through my jewellery box.” “I was left with a number of gemstones in vintage settings, each of which told a story about my life and travels, after I gave away all the undesired items. I currently wear the brooch that Shimell and Madden reset the stones in on a daily basis. Among them are an amethyst that was discovered by a great uncle while out rock-hounding in the Outback and given to me when I was twenty-one. Garnet is my birthstone and it was from a ring that was given to me when I was sixteen.

Two wedding rings were reworked by Ellis Mhairi Cameron for a couple who were both widowed and wanted to keep the memory of their former spouses alive by having the stones reset in the original gold. “I reset the heirloom diamonds from both rings and added a few more diamonds to match the lady’s preferred design.”

Remodeled homes are now more popular, according to London jeweler Esther Eyre, whose clientele includes Gwyneth Paltrow and Tilda Swinton. “I was appalled when I was originally requested to re-mount some jewelry. I was of the very English opinion that jewellery should be preserved in their original form. Not so, in the opinion of Middle Eastern women, who possessed an abundance of jewelry and frequently had it altered into a more stylish design. Since then, a large portion of my business has involved assisting customers in repurposing their jewelry into items they genuinely desire to wear.

Reusing gemstones also contributes to addressing the growing ethical questions surrounding the jewelry industry. “The market for ethical and Fairtrade jewelry is expanding, and there is a lot more information available, but it is not infallible. There’s also a lot of greenwashing going on, according to Scott.

Diamonds in particular have a mixed reputation, partly because of the cutting commentary on the dark side of the trade in the 2006 Leonardo DiCaprio thriller Blood Diamond. The Responsible Jewellery Council was established in 2005, the same year that the movie was shot, with the goal of promoting moral, human rights, and ecological standards throughout the production chain. According to Scott, “The film did a great job.”

The Curling Crest of a Wave, a gold brooch made by Ute Decker, a manufacturer who is also at the forefront of a movement to sustainability, is the museum’s first Fairtrade acquisition. The Victoria & Albert Museum’s jewelry gallery was reopened in the spring of 2019. A fair price is guaranteed by Fairtrade gold, which also establishes guidelines for the environment, health and safety, child labor, and working conditions.